Finally I have decided to sell my car. This is a 2002 Multivan Westfalia 2,5 TDI (Nordic model) and done 421,000 km. Timing belt has been changed by VW at 389,000 km in 2019. Complete clutch replaced at 355,000 km. The engine has never been opened. The undercarriage is competely without rust and been treated regularly with Fluid Film. You can see the interior on my Instagram page: Indian2003
The car has a pop top. There are some minor cosmetic rust spots on the seam but this has been oiled to stop further rusting. Car has always started first time even down to -25 degrees and parked outside in Norway. Some starting videos in youtube.
1. Full leather interior, door cards and quarter panels
2. 5 KW Eberspächer parking heater with remote control
3. D2 Eberspächer air heater
3. 99A Lithium leisure battery with bluetooth
4. Fiamma F45 awning.
5. Westfalia tow hook.
6. AC
7. Ferrita stainless steel exhaust
8. 4 summer and 4 winter powder coated alloy wheels. Tyres almost brand new Nokians
9. Votronic DC-Dc charger
10. K&N air filter
11. Sink with water tank and cupboard for clothes
12. Scangauge
13. Vision X LED driving lamps and relay kit for the main headlamps
14. Sachs HD shock absorbers
15. 120A alternator
16. Bochum drain plug.
17. Lokari inner fenders
This is not a sales post but just to see how much the car is worth. I will sell to someone who will look after the car and use it. I am going electric and feel that I dont use the car enough. Besides, I am getting too old. All replacement parts used have been OEM parts. I have never tried to save money when buying spare parts. No no-name Chinese junk on this car.
The colour is Dragon Green and been run on Castrol Edge 5W40 changed every 15,000 km without fail. Gearbox with long 5th gear is run on Castrol Syntrans.
Beiträge von Indian
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Hello, everyone,
The above stub shaft with item no.: 02G409345A has been omitted without replacement. Now I have only found a replacement part from NTY . Unfortunately, the quality is so bad that the wave has play again and it's a matter of time before it slips through.
The original lasted 420k. The new one causes problems after only 2tkm and already had backlash to the new flange shaft when it was new.
Is there a reasonable manufacturer for this?
Best regards
Marius
Just 2 years ago, the VW dealer had this part in stock.
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Hello everyone
After I am desperate with my desolate air conditioning / heating control and have changed everything on the peripheral relays, I went to the workshop (old T4 lover). It quickly became clear there that the control unit was doing what it wanted. The auxiliary heater can be started, the one behind the rear heat exchanger heats, only the front it blows colder the higher the selected temperature. The said control unit is no longer available at VW, a dealer from Lithuania wants € 526 and one on Ebay (from Germany) takes € 289 but then sends a defective one (now the heater works in the front, but no longer in the back🤮. Does anyone have one Idea to have something like that lying around or know a friend who has something? The part number is 5HB-007-054-01.
I have a controll unit from the VR6. I dont know if it will fit yours but I can check the part number only in January. The car was a 1997 Caravelle.
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Why not go to Norway or even Sweden. I see very nice cars going for less than that. Last one I saw was 800 euros with a failed inspection. The faults were rusty brake pipes. The car had done only about 300,000 km.
Many cars are being scrapped because of the very high labour charges. 200 euros an hour. I paid 1400 euros to replace my fan belt and tensioner. A friend of mine paid 490 euros to replace the radiator, not done at the dealer.
I got a complete rusty Syncro for my German friend Torbi for 500 euros in 2019. -
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I have to warm up the topic again:
NOW there are H4 LEDs with approval, unfortunately not for the T4, but only for newer VW cars such as the T5 from Philips. It's called Philips Ultinon Pro6000.
Perhaps a TÜV person can be "carried away" to an individual acceptance. The LEDs on the T4 should actually be mountable, the crux of the matter here is that you still need some space for the cooling fins / fans behind the headlight, where the connector is normally located. In addition, the rubber grommets may have to be cut out if they only have three slot-shaped openings for the plug-in lugs on the H4, the LEDs require a round opening. Possibly you can use rubber grommets from newer cars for this if you don't want to cut.
Greeting,
Tiemo
I dont think it has to do with the car but the dust cap at the back of the reflecttor of the T4. I am sure they will fit the T4 if you modify the dust cap by drilling a hole. You can use an O-ring to get a good seal between the bulb and the hole in the dust cover.
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I hate threads with no resolution ...
I would think that you start to measure the power cable that goes to the wiper motor with a multimeter. I think there is a short circuit somewhere. Disconnect the battery and trace with the Ohm meter setting. Connect to the power wire and earth and there should be no connection at all.
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Why do you want to replace the Eberspächer D3 in your car with a cheap quality Chinese heater? Very often it is only the glow plug and the fuel filter and or fuel pump that is faulty. These cost only a few euros to buy.
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I would guess it is the oil cooler bracket bracket flange to teh motor block.
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Do you need to buy the complete diode plate? Loose diodes are still available or pull them from another alternator. I remember the Bosch workshops had them about 15 yearsd ago.
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My new Zimmermann rear brake discs got very rusty after being parked on the mountains for 1 month last winter. They did not clean up by driving so I glued 60 grade sandpaper on the outside brake pads and used the cars a few days and the discs became like new. Then I removed the paper.
With the paper on i had to drive carefully, mostly on uncrowded roads. -
A bit late but this is what I have done. I fit 4 relays and 4 fuses and wired like the original VW lighting. 2 relays and 2 fuses for each headlight. I bought the complete kit from the UK.
I use the cheapest Osram Original H4 bulbs. I get 13,2V at the headlights.
H4 Osram Original -
Morning,
my problem is that every cold start - usually at 7 am - the engine roars extremely loudly. Only when it slowly warms up does it become quieter again. I had the exhaust made, so it's new and made of stainless steel.
Does somebody has any idea?
Greetings Isi
I see you have a petrol engine. This noise seems like piston slap which normally shows when the engine is cold and goes away when the engine warms up and the metal expands. The noise is best explained as a distinct ticking noise.
One way to test is to add a liter of 2-stroke oil into the petrol. If there is less or no noise, then it is piston slap. This means that the skirts of the piston are worn.
A replacement with oversized pistons and a rebore are the only solution then. -
Thanks - very kind 👍
The best and easiet way to contact me is by telephone, facebook or whatsapp. Then contact is imediate.
Facebook: Ounni Krishnan Pillai
Tlf/Whatsapp: +47 464 26 546 -
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we also have a member in the forum who comes from Norway. # Who comes up with the name?
The one with the dragongreen bus.
who always writes in English .....?
Indian or something like that, I don't think so.
HAS its cold start after 6 weeks - 20 ° (or so) described with video
So sorry I was not able to help. I have been away for a few months. Mid July I was at the Nordic bus meet in Sweden. I was parked beside a member here, Bernd Kaun.
Later if anyone has problems while in Norway do contact me. I know of a few people around the country and could always put you in touch with some local club members. -
I put in a 100A lithium battery into my Multivan. I also connected a Votronic DC-Dc charger. It takes only minutes to top up my battery.
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The black box behind the ignition lock ... do you mean next to the speedometer?
Just behind the ignition lock. The part with the wires connected. You will heed a very short philips screwdriver. I cut one to about 5 cm and put a rubber hose to use as a handle.
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You can send your injectors to http://www.dieselsend.de. and have them rebuild them for you.
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Hello!
I can get to my filter really well : D
[attach = '8582', 'none', 'false'] [/ attach]
Volley! Holger
Where can I buy this? What will the price be?
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Cool repair sheet. Gelled yourself or bought somewhere? Or cleverly misappropriated?
This is an original VW part the someone in England got from the VW dealer. He found 2 and bought both. I am sure one can be fabricated by welding.
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Hello Horst,
A good locksmith and welder will make the recording for you again - it's not that rotten. Okay, if you already have them in front of you, put in some new sockets. So my suggestion: Remove - take out the bearing bushes, have them welded, grind - blast and powder coat - put new bushes in and put them back in for the next few years, nothing more.
The disadvantage is that your darling stands on trestles and looks stupid into the hall before the new shoes come : thumbsup:: lol:
The picture is different, mine is completely rotten
