I have a green sticker. I just went to Dekra and asked them for one and I got it. I think I paid about 10 euros.
Beiträge von Indian
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Mine has done almost 369,000 km. I just returned on a 12,000 km trip and never got a beat. The only spares I carry with me is a voltage regulator and the 103 and 109 relays. In addition I carry some lengths of elecrtrical wires, vacuum tubes and a roll of gaffa tape.
Next trip to Wietzendorf in September.Yeah, cool. Where did it go so far?
I was all over. 2 trips from home to Poland, Romania and Bulgaria. Tried Ukraine but they detained me for 9 hours. The found a Russian bayonet in the car. Otherwise I was in Denmark for a meet in Ålborg and the to the UK for another meet. I was in Wietzendorf too.
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Mine has done almost 369,000 km. I just returned on a 12,000 km trip and never missed a beat. The only spares I carry with me is a voltage regulator and the 103 and 109 relays. In addition I carry some lengths of elecrtrical wires, vacuum tubes and a roll of gaffa tape.
Next trip to Wietzendorf in September. -
My 2002 Multivan is at 368,000 km now and so far no problems.
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If you burnt your finger on the brown cable, there is a loose connection on the earth cable. In a case like this I would start all over and replace the brush/regulator with a 14,5V unit. These are cheap.
Check the earth connection on the engine/gearbox side. Finally you can wire a 10mm cable from the alternator direct to the plus on the battery to get the full voltage to the battery. -
I think you need to get a pop tester and manually check each injector for dripping under pressure. These pop tester care cheap on ebay and mostly copies of the Bosch model.
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I used a thicker and smaller O-ring to get a good seal.
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There should be flame discs on all injectors. They probably were stuck in your old engine and the guy might not have noticed. When you say smoke, do you mean black smoke or white?
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I had the same leak and I changed the oil filler cap.
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I dont think these heaters heat up to more than 30 degrees.
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This is very interesting. I've been thinking about fitting the .216 nozzles tips from the Audi AEL engine in the injectors of my ACV. I have been looking at the web page of Dieselsend. They cost €123 for 5 nozzles with a bag of shims and heat shields will come to under €200. I was talking to a German guy at Wietzendorf about it who has done it to his car by Dieselsend.
I have a pop tester to test opening pressures and am working on a tool bit to test idle and max pressure with the same pop tester. I will do the conversion myself. Where can I buy the Bosio nozzles in Germany?
The ECU has had a software upgrade and the car runs very well with cold start in winter taking about 1 second but the injectors have already done 353,000 so they cant be optimal. The fuel consumption with nice driving is about .8-.9 l/100 km.
Here is a cold start at -21 degrees 2 years ago.
Where can I buy the Bosio nozzles in Germany?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbHzyBQiUnY -
Hello, I'm currently looking for summer tires in 225 / 55R17.
In the search so far I have always made sure that a load of 101 is present.
But now a dealer on ebay told me that was not enough.
I would probably need the T4 "C-tire".
Do I need this mandatory? Or is the sufficient high load index sufficient?
The load index in my Multivan is 99 in the registration card but on the B pillar it says 100. My summer tyres are at 99 and winter tyres at 102.
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Strange. I use fluid film every 2 years but it does not dry. i have had no problems with the rubber seals. The underbody and inside the doors are wet with the lanolin.
but please, I like to translate that into good German:
"Strange." I use fluid film every two years, but it does not dry out.
I have no problems with the rubber strips. The underbody and the inside doors are damp with the lanolin. "
I don't speak German. You can try Google Translate. The oil in fluid Film is lanolin that comes from sheep. Every treatment on my car takes about 5 liters of Fluid Film.
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I have now bought a can of fluid film. For me, the windscreen frame must still be made. Since this is financially and temporally just not in it, I thought, I take a plastic squeegee, so push off the rubber seal on the windshield and spray some fluid film in the groove along.
This should then stop or slow down the corrosion.
Or is not that a good idea?
For every purpose please use the right remedy. Fluid film can attack and soften rubber parts. There are enough reports where people have "destroyed" their body seams because they have (very) MERGED it well ...
For the application described I would take Owatrol oil, you can run from the top of the disc rubber seal and this is so thin that it comes out after a while then down. Raise the seal slightly and then let it run in a few ml with a syringe. You do that on both sides. The oil dries and seals the rust quite persistently. Wipe off excess oil while it is still liquid, then it gets really tedious ...
Greeting Rainer
Strange. I use Fluid film every 2 years but it does not dry. i have had no problems with the rubber seals. The underbody and inside the doors are wet with the lanolin.
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Well, that's done.
We have done a bit of work sharing.
I have removed the panels and rubber seal.
Then the welding and rust prevention were done.
I then painted, transparent preservation made on it, cladding and rubber seal back to it.
Paid: 280 euros
Looking at the state of the car, I would apply Fluid Film on the underbody and doors and channels. My car has had it done every 2 years and the car is totally rust free. I have Lokari inner fenders. Each treatment costs me a bit under 300 euros. Friends of mine came all the way from Leverkusen to have 2 cars treated.
